Every region of India has had its own wool and fibre craft culture
Wool artisanship is integral to pastoral practices, cultures, and economies
The practice of handcrafting, in its classical form, has evolved over centuries shaped by cultural adaptations to particular biomes. They have been embedded in a web of community inter-relationships and closed-loop economies. Craft practices were indeed intrinsically ‘green’, ‘sustainable’, and ‘environment-friendly’ without explicitly attempting to be any of these.
HIMALAYAN ECOSYSTEM
“Wool embodies place and time. Even as each strand of wool grows out from the sheep’s skin, it becomes a record of the sheep’s experiences in the time between shearings. Where they eat and what they eat is revealed in the growth and quality of their wool… and when I hung out with the Gaddis in Chota Banghal, they started to point out to the few sheep that they identify as “desi,”- native or local - in contrast to the more dominant mixed breed which they variously identify as “cross,” “merini,” or “Australia.” The desi is unique in its double-coated wool - the presence of two distinct types of fibre within the fleece of a single sheep - one long, relatively coarse and low-crimp, and one that is shorter, finer, and crimpier - two timescales expressed side-by-side within the same fleece!”
– Jen Hoover, Researcher and Founder, Aana Jaana
The Himalayas have the softest wool of all the regions.
It is the only region in which the herders still exhibit dependence on income from the wool sales. The local wool is often woven into patties and cut into jackets. The wool is also woven into Pattu or Gardus, which are felted after weaving, making dense textiles. These Gardus/Pattus are used by the herders as rain gear on the alpine meadows. However, the usage of these textiles is on the decline because the newer generation finds clothing made of synthetic fibres a lot more appealing. Such clothing is a lot cheaper than handwoven textiles. The government has also been distributing tents and alpine wear to the herders, and this is another reason for the decline in the use of traditional textiles.
Some products handcrafted with Gaddi wool, Harsil wool & Kathi wool
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Naturally dyed fingerless hand-knitted mitts
The Mitts are handmade by members of Kullvi Whims women's self-help group for Aana Jaana. The Desi oon comes from the Chhota Bangal region of Kangra, Himachal Pradesh and is procured from the local herders. After hand spinning yarn at home, the women gather natural dye materials from the orchards, fields, and jungles surrounding their villages. They work together to dye the yarns and then knit following their own whims to combine colours and motifs.
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Kathi wool angada jacket
Inspired by the traditional Angada blouse-jacket worn by the Bhutia community of Uttarakhand this jacket is made of Kathi sheep wool indigenous to Chamoli, Garhwal region of Uttarakhand, made under collaboration: Khamir x Shepherds of Himalayas. The jacket comes with pintuck details, stand collar, welt pockets, drop shoulders and voluminous sleeves to hold layers inside. Undyed black wool is woven with naturally dyed yarn in random stripes on a hemp warp. Lined with Kala cotton.
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Harsil wool grey and off-white long cushion cover
Grey and off-white harsil wool cushion cover with fringe on sides made with handspun, handwoven and naturally dyed harsil wool of Uttrakhand by Avani Earthcraft.
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Harsil Wool indigo & white sleeveless overlap jacket
Asymmetrical, sleeveless jacket with front welt pockets. The overlap neckline is held with a single wooden button. Made of handspun, handwoven, undyed and naturally dyed indigo harsil wool of Uttarakhand, lined with cotton made by Avani Earthcraft
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Gaddi wool wood smoke throw
This twill throw blanket can create cosy vibes and extra texture to any living space hand-spun and hand-woven by the Kullvi WHIMS team in Naggar, Himachal Pradesh. Two narrower widths are sewn together in the middle with a traditional stitch called the ‘dosaan’ to make a wider textile perfect for wrapping oneself up. The classic natural brown and white twill is woven from Himalayan desi oon (indigenous wool) obtained from the nomadic gaddi pastoralists, who traverse the high altitudes of Himachal Pradesh with their sheep. Perfect for chilly winter mornings and evenings, our warm, throw is water-resistant, and only gets softer with wash and use. Naturally dyed ochre border from walnut bark
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Fair isle hand-woven overcoat in natural dyes
Handcrafted from their origin, this product by Peoli Design is a celebration of ‘the Handmade’. Handspun, handwoven, natural dyed Harsil wool hand-sewn jacket with hand-knitted collar, pockets, and full sleeves made of finer wool from crossbred sheep which have become indigenized with time. The wool is sourced from The Bhotiya and Jadh people of Garhwal, Uttarakhand, customary herders, who rear and graze Harsil breed of sheep. At the onset of summer, the herds move towards alpine pastures. The community's sustenance depends on sheep and wool - from rearing to weaving. At the end of summer herders and their sheep come down from Harsil to Dunda. Winters is the time for knitting and weaving. Despite being slightly coarse, Harsil wool absorbs natural, locally sourced dyes excellently producing more vibrant hues in comparison to imported wool.
SEMI-ARID ECOSYSTEM
"We wrap our relationship with the weavers closely around us"
– says Harkuben Rabari, a sheep and goat herder, pointing to the hand woven Dhabda ( a blanket) and her wedding Ludi (shawl worn by a Rabari woman).
The Pattu, the Bardi, the Ludi, the Tangaliya and the Dhabda are storied textiles
The Pattu and the Bardi are shawls from Rajasthan and make for mandatory gifts on occasions of betrothal and marriage. They are found aplenty in rural and town markets, though often woven in cotton, acrylic or shoddy yarn these days. It is particularly hard to find one made of wool since wool costs more, and these products are not expected to be worn in the rains or the cold, as they serve little functional purpose in such conditions
The Dhabda, too, has met a similar fate as the Pattu and Bardi. Dhabda is often made in cotton and acrylic these days. The elderly women of the Rabari community still wear the woollen dhabda, but the younger generations do not. It is hard to find tied and dyed woollen ludis in markets these days. The Bharwad women wear the Tangaliya- it is expected that they wear it on their wedding day, and different tangaliya textiles are part of the wedding trousseau. However, some of this tradition has been lost as a result of handwoven textiles being relatively expensive and textiles made of artificial fibres being positioned as fashionable in general. In many ways, these communities have been forced to let go of their traditions. These communities find it harder to migrate due to several reasons and most have resorted to a day-grazing strategy which typically does not involve camping under the stars. Such a lifestyle has little need for wool.
Some products handcrafted with Chokhla Wool and Patanwadi Wool
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Home furnishing with chokhla wool
Rangsutra designed handwoven cushion covers with cotton warp and handspun Chokhla wool in weft using extra-weft techniques and embroidery under their range of Chokhla wool home furnishing. Rangsutra is a company owned by a community of over two thousand artisans across rural India.
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Naturally dyed patanwadi kediya coat
Inspired by the famous Rabari kediya of Kutch, Khamir team designed this coat. It buttons up to the waist, has raglan sleeves, black piping detail frames the Patanwadi desi oon of south Kutch. Comes with two pockets to keep the palms warm. It is handspun, handwoven, natural dyed in Patanwadi wool and tweed lined with naturally dyed indigenous Kala cotton.
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Patanwadi wool jacket, kalori collective
Undyed, handspun, handwoven Patanwadi sheep wool of Kutch is woven into a local mythological story by Kalori Collective for Khamir. Rishi Dhoramnath did a headstand on a beetle nut for 12 years atop Dhinodhar Hill in Kutch. Pleased by this, Shiva concentrated the energy of this intense tapasya in Dhoramnath's eyes and warned him that when he opens his eyes everything he sets his gaze on will be burned and destroyed. Dhoramnath carefully turned to the seashore, his gaze blazed through the water and dried the sea. Thus Asia's largest grassland, Banni, was formed.
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Patanwadi woollen firan
Inspired by the Firan, Khamir Team designed this set of 2 is designed to mimic the sheep. Wear the two layers together in winters and shed the woollen layer in warmer months just like the sheep who get a haircut (wool-shear) in summers. A woollen Firan and classic round neck Mashroo kurta layers come with two pockets each. Made from naturally dyed, handwoven and handspun in Patanwadi sheep wool of Kutch
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Men's shawl in patanwadi oon with hand-joint centre
Shamjibhai, a veteran weaver and dyeing expert from Kutch runs the brand Vankar Vishram Valji. He designed this traditional shawl with handspun undyed wool in extra-weft weaving. The shawl is hand-joined in Macchi Kanta technique.
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Naturally dyed acacia striped patanwadi oon shawl
Shamjibhai, a veteran weaver and dyeing expert from Kutch runs the brand Vankar Vishram Valji. He designed the shawl in acacia, katha and lac natural dye stripes with tassels using Patanwadi wool from Kutch.
DECCAN ECOSYSTEM
“Herding sheep is our dharma rather than a mere occupation, entrusted upon us by the divine.”
– Neelkanth Mama, a Deccani sheep herder from Unchgaon village of Belgaum district of Karnataka
Jaan and Gongadi: Two iconic woollen textiles of the Deccan region
Gongadi is the iconic woollen textile of the Deccan plateau and continues to be widely used, both by pastoralists as well as farmers. The original black Gongadi with its distinguishing kada is highly valued even though the average Gongadi in the market is a look-alike. These look-alikes sell at one fourth the price of the cheapest wool-handwoven gongadi. The fakes are produced on Power Looms that use shoddy yarn of lower/poor quality. The shoddy yarn is spun from a mix of waste synthetic fibre, cotton fibres, and woollen fibres.
The other important woollen textile of the Deccan plateau is the Jaan, a felt made from the Deccani wool with trademark motifs. The felt is used by pastoral communities as mattresses. Jaan artisans, these days, find it hard to procure local wool; and recently many herders, unable to afford the jaans produced by traditional craftsmen, have started making these felted articles by themselves at home.
Some products handcrafted with Deccani Wool
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Deccani wool felt and vegetable tanned leather WAK Executive Bag
Dakhni Diaries is presented by Mitan, an organisation based in North Karnataka that promotes craft-based, sustainable livelihood projects for women who had previously depended on seasonal wage-based labour and migration to cities for work. This classic executive bag for the office, laptop or every day. In Grey woven and felted Dakhni wool with vegetable-tanned leather hand-cut trims.
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Deccani wool felt and vegetable tanned leather TAI Executive Bag
The women have revived and mastered many of North Karnataka's craft traditions and techniques such as indigo dyeing of the neelgars, folk stitch and joinery of the Nadafs, felting, spinning and the kambal weaving techniques of the sheepherding communities. This Grey woven and felted Dakhni wool with vegetable-tanned leather hand-cut trims is by Dakhni Diaries, Mitan crafts.
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Charcoal black handcrafted pure woollen urban essential shoe
First of its kind, designed specifically for Indian urban conditions using ethically sourced Indigenous wool directly from artisans by Earthen Tunes.
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Deccani wool & vegetable-tanned leather YAK executive bag
Executive bag for office, laptop or every day. In Black weaved and felted Dakhni wool with vegetable-tanned leather hand-cut trims, by Dakhni Diaries, Mitan crafts.
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Deccani wool kari kambli
Black Dakhni wool blanket, Kari Kattu style hand woven multi-colour border by Dakhni Diaries, Mitan crafts.
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Deccani wool DEA handbag
This Daily handbag is by Dakhni Diaries, Mitan Crafts. In tamarind dyed woven and felted Dakhni wool with vegetable-tanned leather hand cut trims.
